Breeding animals is a big responsibility. It is a lot of work and contrary to popular belief there is little money to made in it. In order to be successful in this adventure you have a true passion for your animals and that specific breed. If you are planning on breeding educate yourself, talk to your vet, have a mentor to help you through the process and be prepared for all possibilities. Breeding is expensive to begin with health testing, vet costs, feeding the pups and your time) but can turn very expensive if problems happen (problems delivering the pups complications during the pregnancy mother refusing to feed the pups etc).
If you are going to breed be responsible make sure you are educating the new owners not just taking their money. Ask them questions to make sure the understand the responsibility and cost of owning a puppy. If you find people that you feel are not going to be able to take care of the pup in the proper to be afraid to refuse service to them.
Always take a puppy back of the new owners can no longer have the pup. If you have a litter of pups they should be your responsibility there entire life. Keep in contact with the new owners to ensure everything is going well with the pup.
Below are a few pages and links that are helpful if you desire to breed. Feel free to contact me with any questions or feedback. If you are deciding if you want to breed and you have questions about the process or want feed back contact us we will try to assist or guide you in the direction you need. to educate you self regarding the following sudjects. email me for help. email@example.com
The information found in these pages are based on my experiences. You should always be consulting your vet, if necessary seek another vets opinion of you are questioning any advice they are giving youGreat Dane Color and Discriptions
Great Dane Breed Standard, Working Group
General Appearance: The Great Dane combines, in its regal appearance, dignity, strength and elegance with great size and a powerful, well-formed, smoothly muscled body. It is one of the giant working breeds, but is unique in that its general conformation must be so well balanced that it never appears clumsy, and shall move with a long reach and powerful drive. It is always a unit-the Apollo of dogs. A Great Dane must be spirited, courageous, never timid; always friendly and dependable. This physical and mental combination is the characteristic which gives the Great Dane the majesty possessed by no other breed. It is particularly true of this breed that there is an impression of great masculinity in dogs, as compared to an impression of femininity in bitches. Lack of true Dane breed type, as defined in this standard, is a serious fault.
Size, Proportion, Substance: The male should appear more massive throughout than the bitch, with larger frame and heavier bone. In the ratio between length and height, the Great Dane should be square. In bitches, a somewhat longer body is permissible, providing she is well proportioned to her height. Coarseness or lack of substance are equally undesirable. The male shall not be less than 30 inches at the shoulders, but it is preferable that he be 32 inches or more, providing he is well proportioned to his height. The female shall not be less than 28 inches at the shoulders, but it is preferable that she be 30 inches or more, providing she is well proportioned to her height. Danes under minimum height must be disqualify’
Head: The head shall be rectangular, long, distinguished, expressive, finely chiseled, especially below the eyes. Seen from the side, the Dane’s forehead must be sharply set off from the bridge of the nose, (a strongly pronounced stop). The plane of the skull and the plane of the muzzle must be straight and parallel to one another. The skull plane under and to the inner point of the eye must slope without any bony protuberance in a smooth line to a full square jaw with a deep muzzle (fluttering lips are undesirable). The masculinity of the male is very pronounced in structural appearance of the head. The bitch’s head is more delicately formed. Seen from the top, the skull should have parallel sides and the bridge of the nose should be as broad as possible. The cheek muscles should not be prominent. The length from the tip of the nose to the center of the stop should be equal to the length from the center of the stop to the rear of the slightly developed occiput. The head should be angular from all sides and should have flat planes with dimensions in proportion to the size of the Dane. Whiskers may be trimmed or left natural. Eyes shall be medium size, deep set, and dark, with a lively intelligent expression. The eyelids are almond-shaped and relatively tight, with well developed brows. Haws and mongolian eyes are serious faults. In harlequins, the eyes should be dark; light colored eyes, eyes of different colors and walleyes are permitted but not desirable. Ears shall be high set, medium in size and of moderate thickness, folded forward close to the cheek. The top line of the folded ear should be level with the skull. If cropped, the ear length is in proportion to the size of the head and the ears are carried uniformly erect. Nose shall be black, except in the blue Dane, where it is a dark blue-black. A black spotted nose is permitted on the harlequin; a pink colored nose is not desirable. A split nose is a disqualification. Teeth shall be strong, well developed, clean and with full dentition. The incisors of the lower jaw touch very lightly the bottoms of the inner surface of the upper incisors (scissors bite). An undershot jaw is a very serious fault. Overshot or wry bites are serious faults. Even bites, misaligned or crowded incisors are minor faults.
Neck, Topline, Body: The neck shall be firm, high set, well arched, long and muscular. From the nape, it should gradually broaden and flow smoothly into the withers. The neck underline should be clean. Withers shall slope smoothly into a short level back with a broad loin. The chest shall be broad, deep and well muscled. The forechest should be well developed without a pronounced sternum. The brisket extends to the elbow, with well sprung ribs. The body underline should be tightly muscled with a well-defined tuck-up.
The croup should be broad and very slightly sloping. The tail should be set high and smoothly into the croup, but not quite level with the back, a continuation of the spine. The tail should be broad at the base, tapering uniformly down to the hock joint. At rest, the tail should fall straight. When excited or running, it may curve slightly, but never above the level of the back. A ring or hooked tail is a serious fault. A docked tail is a disqualification.
Forequarters: The forequarters, viewed from the side, shall be strong and muscular. The shoulder blade must be strong and sloping, forming, as near as possible, a right angle in its articulation with the upper arm. A line from the upper tip of the shoulder to the back of the elbow joint should be perpendicular. The ligaments and muscles holding the shoulder blade to the rib cage must be well developed, firm and securely attached to prevent loose shoulders. The shoulder blade and the upper arm should be the same length. The elbow should be one-half the distance from the withers to the ground. The strong pasterns should slope slightly. The feet should be round and compact with well-arched toes, neither toeing in, toeing out, nor rolling to the inside or outside. The nails should be short, strong and as dark as possible, except that they may be lighter in harlequins. Dewclaws may or may not be removed.
Hindquarters: The hindquarters shall be strong, broad, muscular and well angulated, with well let down hocks. Seen from the rear, the hock joints appear to be perfectly straight, turned neither toward the inside nor toward the outside. The rear feet should be round and compact, with well-arched toes, neither toeing in nor out. The nails should be short, strong and as dark as possible, except they may be lighter in harlequins. Wolf claws are a serious fault.
Coat: The coat shall be short, thick and clean with a smooth glossy appearance.
Color, Markings and Patterns
Brindle--The base color shall be yellow gold and always brindled with strong black cross stripes in a chevron pattern. A black mask is preferred. Black should appear on the eye rims and eyebrows, and may appear on the ears and tail tip. The more intensive the base color and the more distinct and even the brindling, the more preferred will be the color. Too much or too little brindling are equally undesirable. White markings at the chest and toes, black-fronted, dirty colored brindles are not desirable.
Fawn--The color shall be yellow gold with a black mask. Black should appear on the eye rims and eyebrows, and may appear on the ears and tail tip. The deep yellow gold must always be given the preference. White markings at the chest and toes, black-fronted dirty colored fawns are not desirable.
Blue--The color shall be a pure steel blue. White markings at the chest and toes are not desirable.
Black--The color shall be a glossy black. White markings at the chest and toes are not desirable.
Harlequin– Base color shall be pure white with black torn patches irregularly and well distributed over the entire body; a pure white neck is preferred. Merle patches are normal. No patch should be so large that it appears to be a blanket.
Eligible, but less desirable, are black hairs showing through the white base coat which give a salt and pepper or dirty appearance.
Mantle--The color shall be black and white with a solid black blanket extending over the body; black skull with white muzzle; white blaze is optional; whole white collar is preferred; a white chest; white on part or whole of forelegs and hind legs; white tipped black tail. A small white marking in the blanket is acceptable, as is a break in the white collar.
Any variance in color or markings as described above shall be faulted to the extent of the deviation. Any Great Dane which does not fall within the above color classifications must be disqualified.
Gait: The gait denotes strength and power with long, easy strides resulting in no tossing, rolling or bouncing of the topline or body. The backline shall appear level and parallel to the ground. The long reach should strike the ground below the nose while the head is carried forward. The powerful rear drive should be balanced to the reach. As speed increases, there is a natural tendency for the legs to converge toward the centerline of balance beneath the body. There should be no twisting in or out at the elbow or hock joints.
Temperament: The Great Dane must be spirited, courageous, always friendly and dependable, and never timid or aggressive.
Showing Disqualifications: Danes under minimum height, Split nose, Docked Tail, Any color other than those described under "Color, Markings and Patterns"
Approved January 11, 2011, Effective March 1, 2011 A.K.C
Great Dane Club Of America Color Code of Ethics in Breeding
BREEDERS' COLOR CODE (As endorsed by The Great Dane Club of America)
"It shall be the goal of all to breed forward, never backwards, to attain pedigrees of puppies
which have the desired color strains endorsed by the Great Dane Club of America"
There are only six recognized colors; all these basically fall into four color strains:
FAWN and BRINDLE
HARLEQUIN, MANTLE and HARLEQUIN BRED BLACK
BLUE and BLUE BRED BLACK
Color Classifications being well founded, the Great Dane Club of America, Inc. considers it an inadvisable practice to mix color strains and it is the club's policy to be cognizant of the following breedings:
Color of Dane, Approved Breedings, Desired Pedigrees
1. FAWN bred to FAWN or BRINDLE only.
1. BRINDLE bred to BRINDLE or FAWN only.
Pedigrees of FAWN or BRINDLE Danes should not carry BLACK, HARLEQUIN or BLUE upon them.
2. BLACK (HARLEQUIN BRED)
2. HARLEQUIN bred to HARLEQUIN, BLACK from HARLEQUIN BREEDING or BLACK from BLACK BREEDING only.
2. MANTLE bred to HARLEQUIN, MANTLE, BLACK from HARLEQUIN breeding or BLACK from BLACK breeding only.
2. BLACK from HARLEQUIN BREEDING bred to HARLEQUIN, BLACK from HARLEQUIN BREEDING or BLACK from BLACK BREEDING only.
Pedigrees of HARLEQUIN, MANTLE or HARLEQUIN BRED BLACK Danes should not carry FAWN, BRINDLE or BLUE upon them.
3. BLACK (BLUE BRED)
3. BLUE bred to BLUE, BLACK from BLUE BREEDING or BLACK from BLACK BREEDING only.
3. BLACK from BLUE BREEDING bred to BLUE, BLACK from BLUE BREEDING or BLACK from BLACK BREEDING ONLY.
Pedigrees of BLUE or BLUE BRED BLACK Danes should not carry FAWN, BRINDLE, or HARLEQUIN upon them.
4. BLACK (BLACK BRED)
4. BLACK from BLACK BREEDING bred to BLACK, BLUE or HARLEQUIN and MANTLE. (See note below)
Pedigrees of BLACK BRED Danes should not carry FAWN, BRINDLE, HARLEQUIN, MANTLE or BLUE upon them.
NOTE: Black Bred Great Danes may be bred to Blacks, Blues, Harlequins or Mantles only. Puppies resulting from these breedings will become Blacks, Harlequins from Harlequin breeding or Mantle. (category 2 above). Blacks or Blues from Blue breeding (category 3 above) or Blacks from Black breeding (category 4 above).
E-Z COAT COLOR GENETICS FOR
THE GREAT DANE BREEDER
Genetics is not some awful topic far beyond the grasp of the average breeder. A little study and you can help yourself make more intelligent choices when it comes to choosing your breeding stock. Most people ask themselves whether it is even necessary to understand genetics when breeding dogs. Well, you can drive to some place new without a map or directions, using the hit and miss method, and you can probably end up there...eventually, after a lot of wrong turns and wasted time. It is the same with planning litters; you can use the hit or miss method, or provide yourself with a "map" of the rules of inheritance and get there a lot quicker with a lot less mistakes. The good news is coat color genetics are easy to understand and will help a lot in giving you the basics when it comes to the more difficult areas of genetics of conformation, health and temperament.
First, coat color genetics needs to be put into perspective and a few myths need to be dispelled. Good coat color does not alone make a good dog. Poor coat color may remove an animal from breeding consideration, but does not make the dog a bad dog. The breeder is not necessarily to be condemned for mismarks, unless the practice is repeated and the breeder refuses to learn from their mistakes. Some aspects of coat color genetics are easy to control, while others cannot be manipulated at all. Individual dogs (i.e. the sire or the dam) are rarely responsible for mismarks; this is truly an area where it takes "Two to Tango" and if you don't want to produce the same mismarks again, these two should not be bred to each other again. Dogs who produce mismarks are also giving these "off-color" genes to their offspring who appear correct in color. This means even their correctly marked puppies can be expected to throw the same "off-colors", and the genes are just carried on through the generations, popping up again and again. It is a situation where things have just been swept under the rug.
I am going to go about this explanation using the six basic colors and describe how to get proper color and how mismarks can occur. If you want more in depth information; the whys as well as the whats, please refer to your ((handouts)). I will start with the easiest color: Fawn.
FAWNS: fawn x fawn can only produce fawn: no brindles, blacks, solid blues, harls, merles are possible. If you get a brindle from a fawn x fawn breeding, then one of your fawns is really a brindle, and has so little striping it just looked like a fawn.
Mismarks from fawn x fawn: blue/chocolate-masked fawns, no-mask fawns, washy/sooty fawns, fawns with white markings. In all these cases both parents have contributed their genes to produce the mismarks. Both parents will continue to produce correctly marked offspring which also carry the mismark recessive genes, who will also produce mainly mismarks and pups who carry for mismarkings. Of the pups correctly marked, 2 of 3 will carry the genes for mismarking and you cannot tell by looking at them. Bottom Line? Don't reuse individuals in your breeding program who have produced these mismarks, and beware that if you use their correctly colored pups you will have the same problem again and again.
BRINDLES: brindle x brindle can only produce brindle and fawn. There are brindles whobreedings are about 50/50 fawn and brindle. Mismarks from brindle x brindle and brindle x fawn: you can get all the mismarks as outlined above for fawn x fawn breedings. The same advice applies. Some brindles do not carry for mask, even though the stripes merge to give an appearance of a mask; if mated to a fawn with only one gene for the mask, you will get 'white-faced' fawns, i.e. fawns without the required mask. Again, both parents contribute to this situation, and both are passing along those non-mask genes.
BLUES: Blue x Blue: No blacks or harls, merles are possible. Generally a blue to blue breeding produces blues. This is a dilute gene so skin and eye color is also affected as no black pigment can be formed: nose will be slate and dark brown-black eyes are impossible. Mismarks from blue x blue: mismarked fawns and brindles (who will have blue masks and stripes), dogs with too much white, dogs with washy, off-shades of blue.
Black x Blue: No harls, merles are possible. Generally only blacks and blues will be produced. You only get blues if the black is carrying for blue: which means somewhere in his pedigree he should have blue ancestors. All the blacks from this breeding will be carrying the recessive blue, even though they look just like black-bred blacks. Blacks carrying for blue can cause problems if bred to fawns/brindles as they introduce the blue gene which can cause blue masks/stripes and pups who look correct, but carry for mismarkings and will produce blue marked pups.
Mismarks from black x blue: fawns and brindles (and they will either have blue markings or carry for the blue), dogs with too much white, dogs with washy off-shades of blue. Bottom Line? Keep your blue families away from your fawn/brindle families and don't let blacks be used in both color families; i.e. don't breed blacks with fawn/brindle in their pedigrees to your blues, unless you are willing to accept generations of mismarks that will just keep popping up.
BLACKS: Cannot produce harls or merles. Blacks basically all look alike, but are very different in their breeding capabilities, depending on what colors are in their pedigree. Black-bred blacks have only black in their pedigree and only produce black. Blue-bred blacks carry for, and produce blues (as well as blacks). Fawn/Brindle-bred blacks carry for, and produce blacks, fawns and brindles: if there are no blue-carriers these fawns/brindles will breed just like those out of fawn/brindle parents. (They are not contaminated and cannot produce blacks, unless bred to a black.) Harlequin-bred blacks will be discussed under the harlequin family; but note these blacks should not be bred into the other Dane lines because they carry recessive white, even when they don't show it, and will produce offspring who are disqualified from both breeding and showing.
Mismarks from black x black breeding: everything imaginable except merles and harls; even chocolates and bicolor (black and tan) dogs have been reported. Black hides a lot of "sins". (If you get any harl/merle dogs, then one of your blacks is not a black/boston, but a genetic harl mis-identified as a blackand white/boston dog.)
Mismarks from black x blue: described under Blue.
Mismarks from black x fawn/brindle: everything again, including blue/chocolate masking/stripes, if the black carries for blue.
Bottom Line? Black-bred blacks are a sure thing (if you are sure there aren't any chocolates/ blues/fawns/brindles/harl-bred blacks in the woodpile!). Be scrupulous about marking your pedigrees and expect mismarks if you mix up the black families, or breed from stock who has prodcued off-colors/mismarks.
HARLEQUINS: Ah! the horrible harlequins! Just as general advice, harl breeding is not for the novice or the faint at heart. Harls ALWAYS produce mismarks, giving you very few pups to choose from for showing and breeding. Harls cannot breed true. Harls have a smaller gene pool, and fewer superior animals to go to, to correct your line's faults. Harl litters involve culling pups at birth, a practice some breeders cannot tolerate. The color itself is poorly understood and even if you stick to breeding only the correctly marked animals, you will still have lots of mismarks and still have to cull from time to time. The harl family has four basic colors, and all four are often seen in the same litters:
HARLEQUIN: The standard says "pure white base coat with black torn patches irregularly and well distributed over the entire body; pure white neck preferred. The patches should never be large enough to give the appearance of a blanket nor so small as to give a stippled or dappled effect...less desirable are a few small gray spots..saltcolor and walleyes are permitted...nose should be black; a black spotted nose is permitted...faults include white base coat with a fewlarge spots, bluish-gray pointed background...pink noses..."
Harlequins do come in all these less than desirable patterns, and in litters from well-marked parents. To get a harl it is generally believed you need at least one harl parent. Harls whose pattering does not fall within the acceptable ranges as written in the standard should be considered mismarked harlequin and are best sold off as pets and not used in breeding programs as a general rule. Again, using mismarks ups your chances of making mismarks and in harl breeding programs that is already a huge and "un-fixable" problem, so why make it worse than it already has to be, by creating for yourself even MORE mismarks in every litter? Stick to breeding properly marked harls to properly marked mantles/harls if you want to minimize your color issues and lower the percentage of mismarks per litter.
MERLE: The standard says: "disqualifying... a solid mouse-gray color or a mouse-graycolor spots or white base with mouse-gray spots. These dogs may look different that their harl sibs, but may be genetically exactly alike; harls and merles do share a lot of the same genes. Merles are commonly produced from harl x harl and harl x black breedings. There are unconfirmed stories of harlsbreedings. But bear in mind that a harl in one person's eyes is a merle to another breeder. Pedigrees may be incorrectly marked for color. Many novices cannot distinguish harls from merles. Merles can be (and are) used in harlequin breeding programs. But they have decided disadvantages. They produce defective dominant whites (while mantles do not). They are themselves disqualified under the standard (and the breeding of such is considered by many to be unethical). They produce no more and usually less harls than the use of a harl in their place (and there are reports of disasterous health problems when using merles). They cannot produce harls unless bred to a harl (claims to the contrary remain undocumented), so using a mantle seems a better choice generally speaking.
WHITES: "Double-merle" or dominant-whites result from harl x harl, harl x merle and merle x merle breedings (as well as when whites are bred to merles or harls). These dogs carry a double dose of the dominant gene that makes a harl/merle. They are usually 90% or more white, may have odd gray and/or black patches anywhere, and are commonly deaf, sometimes have eye defects, and can also be sterile and may have other problems. These problems can also be seen in any dog who is predominately white, especially if there is no pigment around the ears and on the head. So harls and merles who are lightly marked may be at risk. There are also whites produced by a different gene that is recessive (described under BLACK), which may look basically the same. Many breeders require that all dogs who are white or near- white are culled at birth so as not to rear potentially defective puppies. Many of these whites (about ~50% of double-merle whites) die as embryos, reducing the size of the litter itself, and those who survive to birth must be expected to have serious defects. The common practice of ethical breeders is to humanely euthanize all near white pups at birth. Some whites can produce harls when bred to some blacks, but mostly whites produce nothing but problems for the uninitiated and anyone using whites (disqualifying color and normally also a dog with serious defects) in their breeding program can expect others to have some doubts and concerns about the breeders in question, as well as the dogs themselves.
BLACK: The harl bred black generally will show too much white to be a show specimen as a black. The standard used to say: "disqualifying......and black Danes with white forehead lines, white collars, high white stockings and white bellies" and this is exactly what you need to produce well-marked harls off of blacks. Well marked "bostons" with a white collar, legs, belly and blaze will produce well-marked harls when bred to harls; they are officially referred to as MANTLES. This color is allowed as of April 1999 under the revised (AKC) Great Dane standard as to allow dogs with a black coat or blanket (mantle) and black cap (head) and white markings to include four white legs, muzzle white, throat, belly and tail tip white, with a full collar and blaze preferred. (Breaks in the collar or blanket are allowed and a blaze is not required.)
MANTLE: The dog should carry the characteristic pattern to produce properly marked harls, and the mantledane also should have brown eyes (blue eyes are an indication the dog is not likely a genetic mantle, but rather a mismarked "blanket" harlequin). Black and white dogs who fall outside the range for the Mantledane, and who are mostly black or mostly white should not be used in harlequin breeding programs generally, as they often produce harls with too many or too few spots and they pass on these alterations from the correct pattern unseen to their well-marked offspring. Well marked bostons or Mantledanes are actually preferable partners to harls, all other considerations being equal; you cannot get the dominant-defective white puppies from this breeding (pups routinely born to harl x harl (or merle) breedings). You CAN get recessive-white dogs, commonly called piebalds, plattenhunden, boston-heads, merle-heads and harl-heads, all who lack "patches well distributed over the entire body". Most have only color on the head and at the tail root. This recessive white is tricky because it is often hidden in dogs that are correctly marked themselves. These undermarked dogs can also suffer from ear and eye problems if they are predominately white and/or have white heads/blue eyes.
HARL Family BREEDINGS: Harl x Harl: 25% each: Harl/merle/white/black. This does not mean any of the pups will carry the correct markings; it just means expect about 2 harls per litter. Use of harls whose
patterns fall outside the accepted range means an increase in mismarks, but use of correctly marked harls only means mismarks will be minimized, not completely avoided.
Harl x Black: 50% black and 25% each merle/harl. If the black is a correct boston, i.e. mantledane, (i.e. not mismarked blacks or a piebald/ boston-head) then what harlsMantleDane or "boston-merles" is the best choice to achieve the ideal coloration under the american (AKC) standard for harldanes. If the black is a solid or mismark, your harls will likely be too heavily marked. If the black is a piebald or boston-head, (i.e. under-marked), you will get more pups without body marking and the correctly marked pups will carry for no body markings and will produce dogs without body markings, as well as pass on the recessive genes that create white bodied dogs. Again the rule of thumb is to achieve the highest possible percentage of correctly marked pups both parents should be correctly marked themselves.
Harl x Merle: just like harl x harl, although some breeders report fewer harls. Dominant- whites can be produced. The merle you use should be a boston-merle for the best effects (to mimick the use of the mantledane). Expect small litters and don't be surprised by a variety of problems if you choose to use this sort of breeding-including others feeling uncomfortable and wondering about your standards and intentions. Many breeders with stud dogs refuse to service merles.
White x Black: Anything can happen here. Remember if both these dogs carry dominants, only the good Lord knows what is hidden underneath. Assuming it is a dominant-white who is fertile you will get all merles or all harls, but generally you get a mix of both. If they carry the wrong recessive white genes, you differ genetically, but there is no way to tell what kind of brindle it is by just looking at it. Usually you will get brindles, with the occasional fawn popping up. Brindle x Fawn: only brindles and fawns are possible. Some brindles will throw all brindles off of fawns, but most and pepper...eyes should be dark...light eyes, two eyes of different base with black or white or both produced from merle x black you get should be correctly marked. No dominant-whites are possible. Rather that solid black, a may still have all mismarks-no harls at all!! If the white is really a recessive-white, you will get nothing but black dogs with white trim-again all mismarks!! If the black/boston is really a (mismarked) harl, or you use a harl or merle to breed to this white, then half the litter will also be deaf-white. (More things can go wrong than right with this really and the list given is just the basics--very incomplete as to the potential "nightmares.")
If you even attempt this at all, choose a well-marked boston and whites from harl x harl or harl x merle breedings, in which the parents, etc., were correctly marked. You must be sure you are really using a double-dominant (defective) white--so the dog in question is normally deaf (at least-may have other health problems). Also remember as the dominant-whites are usually deaf, the white bitches cannot be left alone with the puppies, as they cannot hear them and often crush them, or fail to care for them. So normally a white dog is put to a mantle bitch. White dogs may or may not perform as stud dogs. Extraordinary dogs, extenuating circumstances and super pedigrees are the only legitimate excuse for doing white to black breedings. The whole venture is very risky. Also, always be sure to check contracts as many breeder require all whites be put down. Expect others to doubt your ethical standards if you choose to go this route.